A camellia's whole year is decided in a fortnight the previous summer, when next spring's buds are formed — which is why a dry July is the usual reason for a plant covered in buds that drop without opening.
The other classic failure is position. Morning sun on frosted flowers thaws them too fast and turns them brown, so a west or north wall suits them better than the sunny spot instinct suggests.
Camellia japonicaJapanese camellia
Camellia japonica
Water consistently through the first two summers, particularly in the bud-forming months of late summer.
Care
Sheltered from early morning sun, which can damage frosted buds and flowers.
Dislikes drying out, especially while flower buds are forming in late summer.
Acidic, humus-rich, moisture-retentive but well-drained soil. In alkaline gardens, grow in a large pot with ericaceous, peat-free compost instead.
Minimal — trim to shape immediately after flowering if needed; avoid pruning later, which removes next year's flower buds.
An ericaceous feed after flowering and again in early summer, while next year's buds are forming. Do not feed later than midsummer: late growth is soft, and this is also when bud drop is decided — by dryness at the roots, not by fertiliser.
Semi-ripe cuttings in summer with bottom heat, taking a shoot that bends but does not snap. Layering a low branch is slower but needs no equipment and suits a plant grown in the open ground.
Month by month
Months change with the climate: in southern Italy tomatoes go out two months earlier than in England.
- MarchEnjoy the main flowering season.
- AprilTrim to shape immediately after flowering if needed. how ›
- AugustWater well as next year's flower buds form — drought now causes bud drop the following spring. how ›
Months based on climate: UK. Your choice stays on this device.
- MarchEnjoy the main flowering season.
- AprilTrim to shape immediately after flowering if needed. how ›
- AugustWater well as next year's flower buds form — drought now causes bud drop the following spring. how ›
Months based on climate: Northern Italy. Your choice stays on this device.
Common problems
How to spot it. Buds form but fail to open, often from a dry spell in late summer/autumn.
What to do. Water consistently as buds develop.
How to spot it. Browned blooms after a cold snap.
What to do. Site away from early morning sun.
Camellia sasanquaSasanqua camellia
Camellia sasanqua
Consistent watering through late summer is the single biggest factor in a good flowering display.
Care
More sun-tolerant than japonica.
Same drought sensitivity around bud formation.
Acidic, humus-rich soil as japonica, or ericaceous compost in a pot.
Minimal, trim to shape after flowering (typically autumn into early winter for this group, later than japonica).
Same regime as japonica — an ericaceous feed after flowering and a second in early summer. In a pot it matters more: ordinary tap water gradually raises the pH, and an unfed container camellia yellows between the leaf veins.
Semi-ripe cuttings in summer under cover. Sasanqua strikes a little more readily than japonica, but both are slow — a rooted cutting is a small plant for several years.
Month by month
Months change with the climate: in southern Italy tomatoes go out two months earlier than in England.
- AugustWater well as flower buds form in late summer. how ›
- OctoberEnjoy the main flowering season, autumn into winter.
- NovemberTrim to shape once flowering finishes. how ›
Months based on climate: UK. Your choice stays on this device.
- AugustWater well as flower buds form in late summer. how ›
- OctoberEnjoy the main flowering season, autumn into winter.
- NovemberTrim to shape once flowering finishes. how ›
Months based on climate: Northern Italy. Your choice stays on this device.
Common problems
How to spot it. From dry conditions in late summer.
What to do. Water consistently.
How to spot it. To open autumn flowers in a cold snap.
What to do. Site away from frost pockets.
Popular varieties
Questions
Camellia: is it hardy?
Camellia japonica: H5: Hardy in most of the UK, but can struggle in the coldest inland or upland spots. It survives down to −15 °C. Camellia sasanqua: H4: Hardy through an average UK winter. It survives down to −10 °C.
Can it grow in a pot?
Camellia japonica: An excellent choice for a large pot with ericaceous compost, especially useful on alkaline soil. Camellia sasanqua: As japonica.
Camellia: when do you prune it?
Camellia japonica: Minimal — trim to shape immediately after flowering if needed; avoid pruning later, which removes next year's flower buds. In the calendar for UK, pruning falls in April. Camellia sasanqua: Minimal, trim to shape after flowering (typically autumn into early winter for this group, later than japonica). In the calendar for UK, pruning falls in November.
Camellia: when does it flower?
Camellia japonica: In the climate of UK it flowers in February–April. Camellia sasanqua: In the climate of UK it flowers in October–December.
When do you feed it?
Camellia japonica: An ericaceous feed after flowering and again in early summer, while next year's buds are forming. Do not feed later than midsummer: late growth is soft, and this is also when bud drop is decided — by dryness at the roots, not by fertiliser. Feeding months, UK: April, June. Camellia sasanqua: Same regime as japonica — an ericaceous feed after flowering and a second in early summer. In a pot it matters more: ordinary tap water gradually raises the pH, and an unfed container camellia yellows between the leaf veins. Feeding months, UK: April, June.